That’s interesting I didn’t know that. I used to share workstations with someone from indonesia who had what seemed like very strange habits of employing caps lock constantly. I assumed it was just a personal weirdsy but maybe it was due to use of caps lock in another linguistic context.

However, I know for a fact that it doesn’t do anything I need. I’ve had it remapped for a couple years on personal machine without issues.

Thanks for telling me though, because I will be sure not to fallback to the registry or another method that changes behavior system-wide. Would not want to prevent anyone else from using the device.

ah OK thanks!

I will try this when I am at my workstation.

Oh sweet if there was a native windows option that would be best.

Tho I feel like I might have tried this and it didn’t work somehow. I will try again when at my workstation.

At home, once in a while caps lock turns itself on somehow. I have a shell alias to fix the problem:

UNCAPS='xdotool key Caps_Lock'

Should this happen at work I was thinking to either temporarily disable the application that is doing the remapping, or use some sort of onscreen keyboard to inactivate the caps lock.

• I have small hands that makes certain key combos involving ctrl difficult/uncomfortable to reach
• at home I have caps lock remapped and therefor I am constantly using it by muscle memory
• Even before I had remapped it at home, I would sometimes enable it by accident which is annoying
• in previous versions of windows (I think windows 8?) I could disable caps lock entirely in a system setting but it seems they have removed this option from more recent version
• it’s right there

I tried installing Power Toys a while ago but the version of windows is too old to support it.

Thanks I will do this!

Does this first line mean anything? I didn’t install anything except the basic AH package:

;The keyboard hook must be installed.

So you mean it would have no effect, yes? On restart it will have the same settings and firmware it did prior to pressing the reset button?

I looked at the QMK docs to see about using it from the terminal. But I am not clear about how to get around the issue of the firmware not being up to date.

I don’t quite trust various bits and pieces I’ve found about how to use it around the web. Like the configurator page for this device says

Reset Key: Hold down the key located at K00, commonly programmed as Esc while plugging in the keyboard.

compared to the keychron docs I linked to in the OP which says

reset the keyboard by pressing fn + J + Z (for 4 seconds)

And also describes an actual reset button located under the space bar.

Why are they different…? It seems like keychron probab knows how to reset their own device. So I wonder if it is a good idea to load anything from this qmk page using methods I don’t understand well because I’d never be able to get myself out of a mess.

That is my previous experience. I guess i missed it somehow.

If LVM isn’t somehow mitigating the issue I will do a reinstall.

I have run out of space on / before and it is a huge pain in the ass. I do not need much room for /home on this system so I would prefer to be cautious and avoid problems down the road.

Hopefully I will be able to figure out how to specify this… maybe a different installer image.

I have a form like this I do regularly for work. I actually fax the form, I don’t even send it electronically. But I like to fill it electronically so I have my records on the computer. Because it is 2023. I had to use my home computer (linux) to generate a copy of the form, then use a floss editor I managed to get working on windows work computer to annotate on top of the form fields. For some reason it’s really hard to get the annotations to line up with the form fields. So sometimes I have to correct it by hand after printing to clarify.

It is a zero security form, there is no need to have all this rigamarole. The form is freely available on the internet and anyone with a fucking fax machine could fill it in and send it on behalf of anyone else. Fax machine is the biggest hurdle; who the hell has one of those.

Thanks!

I think I miiight have found an exact match: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005073296395.html Not sure what a waterproof USB port is used for but it should do the trick. I’ll buy a few other connectors of similar size to hedge my bets and do as you say if this one doesn’t quite fit.

Looks like I’ll be starting a new plastic compartment container…

The more exterior black wire is thicker than the other ones. You can’t really see it in the photos. I am thinking it is the same as the grey wire labeled as ground in the AE pic.

What am I measuring? The white box that clips in is exactly 1cm. All these connectors (which I believe are called JST) with 5 pins are labeled as being “1.25” but I can’t tell if that’s dimensional. But what else would it be? I can’t find any that are 1cm.

It’s so weird how different shipping/distribution can be for different kinds of things. Keyboard-type stuff seems to suffer from it a lot. Even my favorite brand keychron, which seems like a legit business selling at low/mid price, only lists a tiny number of their items on amazon.ca. Buying direct from their website or aliexpress adds a big shipping charge.

OK thanks! It sort of looks like it would be possible but I didn’t want to go too aggressively at the existing cable until I have a replacement.

The aliexpress seller linked above repeats “The Line Sequence Needs To Be Changed” several times in the description. Maybe this is what that means?

a long as the letters don’t type upside down

I mean if I’m going to buy component for the purpose, and there is a clip type thing on the board already, it seems like just obtaining the correct part would be the thing to do if possible. Rather than buying the wrong piece, dismantling the device further and possibly breaking it in the process. (It is really cheap and flimsy.) I’ve spliced things but that’s like more something to do when salvaging or putting something together from what’s on hand.

Neat little gizmos though I’ll file it away for another project perhaps.

Do you think so? the letters are the right way up on the USB-C end. Here is how my existing cable looks in comparison:

The description lists the letters as VCC, D -, D+, GND, SG.

ack shipping is >CA$30. maybe there is a local distributor.

Understood, thanks. I will keep in mind. Not in the US so sometimes shipping can be too much on these shopify stores for just 1 item but I will get from here if reasonable.